Following Lewis and Clark

I have referred to the Lewis and Clark Expedition in previous posts; we are now closely following the Missouri River across Montana ... as they did in 1805. Well not actually 'as they did', but we are coming across many sites where the history of their journey is exhibited.

The Lewis and Clark Expedition travelled from Illinois to the Pacific Ocean, and back, between 1804 and 1806. Their goal was to find a waterway to the Pacific while exploring the newly acquired Louisiana Purchase. Their journey followed the courses of the Missouri and Columbia rivers. They crossed the Rockies and the Bitteroot Mountains

Their route can be retraced by following the Lewis and Clark National
Historic Trail. There are more than 100 sites along the Trail which covers 3,700 miles. The 'interpretive' sites provide a wide variety of exhibits, activities and programmes for users of all ages.

I have the book 'Undaunted Courage'  written by Stephen E Ambrose which presents a definitive account of their journey and the hardships they endured. It has been so interesting to read those chapters which cover the areas in which we are travelling - through the eyes of Lewis and Clark!

Our drive from Glasgow to Great Falls takes us away from the Missouri River for most of the day. We take Highway 2 west until we reach Havre. It is Saturday and there is a Farmers Market in town. We wander through it for a while, find coffee and then 'ride on'.


We turn southwest on Hwy 87 driving through endless rolling prairies covered in wheat. We are in Chouteau County, the largest winter wheat producing county in Montana. A lot of harvesting is happening. Huge vistas of wide open range under that enormous sky!!









We catch up with the Missouri River again when we arrive at Fort Benton. Said to be the birthplace of Montana, Fort Benton is one of the oldest settlements in the American West. It was established in 1847 and was once a hub of trade and travel in Montana territory's early days.
An important economic centre,  it attracted steamboats from New Orleans, Memphis, St. Louis, Bismarck and Kansas City. It was also the overland link for trade on the Missouri River and the Columbia River in Washington.

Lewis and Clark Memorial

From the historical references we see and read, Fort Benton was a pretty lawless town in its heyday!

The Grand Union Hotel beautifully restored.

We arrive in Great Falls at about 4pm. We stay a couple of nights.

Great Falls is the third largest city in Montana. It is in close proximity to a series of 5 waterfalls on the Missouri River (hence the name) that the Lewis and Clark Expedition had to portage around. A 10 mile stretch, it took them over a month of hard labour. Today each falls has a hydroelectric dam ... thus Great Falls' nickname is the Electric City.

Then we are headed more west than south as we make our way to Helena, the capital city of Montana. We have missed several places that I think would have been highlights including the Missouri Breaks Back Country Byway. It consists of gravel and unimproved roads - clearly not for an RV. It is about 80 miles in length with several side trips off the route.  Oh well - we will just have to come back ...!


Helena is one of the country's smallest state capitals with a population of about 28,000. The main street is called Last Chance Gulch reflecting its history as a gold-mining camp in the 1860's.

Although we continue to follow the Missouri River, the rolling plains and wheat gradually give way to mountains. It is a lovely drive.

We both need a haircut badly! I have checked out a hair salon for me and a barber for Trevor; they appear to both be in the same block. Unfortunately the salon I was going to is booked out, so I sit and wait for Trevor to have his haircut.


From Helena we start to climb -seriously!  Helena is at an elevation of 4090 ft; within half an hour we are at 6362 ft at MacDonald Pass.

The devastation caused by pine beetle infestations is very apparent here. Whether it is the warming temperatures or changes in climate, the scale of die off is unprecedented, with a huge impact on the ecosystem.


The scenery is great - despite the pine beetle. We stop for fuel and coffee just outside Missoula, the city that formed the backdrop to the book and subsequent movie ' A River Runs Through It'.



Montana has been closely tied to fly-fishing - the wide, fast rivers always spectacularly beautiful and filled with fish.




 



 







The Blackfoot River lazily follows us as we head north from Missoula on Highway 93.
We enter the Flathead Indian Reservation at Evaro. We stop at a store selling of all things - licorice! They have an enormous selection;  many of which are from Australia! It's amazing how exciting it is to find licorice after not having had any for 13 months!



















The Flathead Valley which stretches between Flathead Lake and Missoula is very fertile; lots of farming and rolling ranchland.
We watch out for harvesting and are intrigued by the different shapes of hay bales - I guess there are reasons for the differences, probably largely due to the climate??











Then we are driving into Polson, a small town at the southern end of Flathead Lake. Trevor drops me off at a hairdressing salon which advertises 'Walk-ins Welcome.'  I am told there is an hour wait; I decide not to wait. It looks more like a barber shop to me!

We stay at the Eagle Nest RV Resort. We will be here for 3 nights. The bikes are off. I make an appointment at another hair dressing salon... finally!

We enjoy Polson. The RV Park is friendly; we meet some lovely people; there are a lot of visitors from the South who come North for the summer - many of them are regulars. Happy hour is a great time to share experiences.





Flathead Lake covers nearly 200 square miles, is 27 miles long and 15 miles wide. It is the largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi River.





We bike into town each day. We find coffee and spend some time down by the lake. Main Street is decorated with hanging baskets - as most towns are -  these baskets are spectacular. They are full of blossoms from 3 or 4 different plants; they seem to be multi layered.
We find the nursery which grows the baskets for the town. The staff are happy to share their secrets .. but I still don't know if I could re-create such perfection!

The Flathead Valley is known for its cherries. There are stalls selling cherries all along the road. They are quite lovely and so cheap! Huckleberries are also in season. I haven't tasted them before. They are like a blueberry only a bit smaller with a slightly tart taste. The best way to have them is in icecream or stuffed into pancakes with a huckleberry sauce over the top!!

I walk each morning we are in Polson. I need to do some exercise with the wonderful food we are eating!