Wednesday 20 February 2013

'Out in the West Texas town of El Paso ...'

We find El Paso to be different to our expectations in just about every way!

It stands on the Rio Grande across the border from Ciudad Juarez, Mexico. The 2 cities form a combined international metropolitan area, with a population of 2 million; the city of El Paso has a population of approx 700,000. It is a mix of Mexico, Texas and America in a fascinating sort of way.

However the idea of  'combined' cities is negated by the presence of an 18 foot high border fence; a thin trickle of the Rio Grande river which flows through concrete channels between the 2 cities, and border patrol vehicles stationed approximately 200 feet apart in the metropolitan areas and further patrols along the length of the border. We had hoped to cross into Mexico here but were warned not to do so. These warnings came from several different sources and we take them seriously. The warnings relate to violent crime and personal safety!


I walk each morning;  I can see Mexico on the hillside. I am in a fairly run down area of the city but there are a number of other walkers - (my age perhaps) - we nod as we pass each other.
The mornings are very cold. I have  4 layers on, a beanie and gloves!

Yes!!!! 
The homes in the neighbourhood I walk appear very basic and small. The gardens are almost non existent, the yards are dusty sandy areas with rough paths and few trees ( bare at this time of year). The sand looks to be raked? Lots of dogs behind  fences. I manage to set most of them off.
The houses are a desert colour, pretty much all the same.
We are about 4000 feet and I notice the elevation when walking.


With our rental car we are able to explore a lot of the city and surrounding areas. We visit Harts Mill which is right beside the Mexican border; one of the oldest buildings in El Paso. It dates to around 1850 and is said to be the location where Onate crossed the Rio Grande in 1598.




Don Juan de Onate y Salazar (1550-1626) was a Mexican explorer. In 1598 he headed an expedition to New Mexico, fording the Rio Grande at present day El Paso and claiming all of New Mexico.









We try to get a closer look at the border but are stopped by a Border patrol vehicle. They are stationed 200 feet apart along the border. It is a bit like an armed camp with helicopters hovering overhead and the massive border fence.

El Paso is much more than a city. The nation's biggest urban wilderness park, Franklin Mountains State Park, about 26,000 acres of Chihuahan desert with an accessible mountain, lies in the heart of the city.





We also visit the Chamizal National Memorial which celebrates the peaceful settlement of a dispute over the international boundary at El Paso, Texas and Ciudad Juarez, Mexico. On 29 August 1963, after decades of arguing about who owned a piece of land shaped and reshaped by the meandering Rio Grande river, the question was finally resolved by diplomacy.  The river was constrained within a concrete channel for four and a half miles, forming a permanent border between the two nations.

Although the museum at the memorial was not open the day we visited, when we said that we were visiting from Australia we were invited in and the museum was opened; a ranger gave us a lot of his time explaining much of the history of the memorial and his insights into present day life on the border.

Mexico - through the border fence.

Memorials at Harts Mill









The International Bridge border crossing.

Border Highway


The Equestrian, a magnificent bronze sculpture stands at the entrance to the El Paso International Airport. The rider depicts Don Juan de Onate. It stands 44 feet tall, weighs 17 ton and took 9 years to complete.







On Sunday afternoon we drive out of town to the Cattleman's Steakhouse at Indian Cliffs Ranch, a large family style restaurant on a 46 square mile working ranch. Although we don't feel like a meal we have a beer and a plate of beef tips. Wonderful!

Back to town to watch the Super Bowl. The  game takes 4 hours, including a blackout! Unfortunately the 49ers lost. Margaritas and tapas (really nibbles) for tea. A new diet perhaps??

The view from the restaurant








The Cattlemans Steakhouse and Ranch house



Almost too close and personal!













And then we found Rosa's Cantina! For those that don't know Marty Robbins' song this will not mean anything at all. But when we tell people that we found Rosa's Cantina in El Paso, the overwhelming response is 'You're kidding' !
Truly there it was, right beside the border .. and it continues to operate as a cafe.  Unfortunately it was closed on the day we were there.


The back door ?????

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